For years, I have perused the phone book-thick Baker Creek Seed Catalog and marveled at the girth of their Tahitian Melon squash, the untameable tendrils on their Sugar Daddy Snap Peas, and the marbling on the kernels of the Montana Sunburst Corn. Baker Creek sells the widest variety of 19th century seeds. Owner Jere Gettle and his robust family of 6, seem to exist in a living history display. Their dress code is Saturday-Night-Fever-meets-Menonite-Gone-Wild, and they take every opportunity to feature their children and their staff cradling prized vegetables, online, in the catalog, and on the face of the thousands of varieties of seed packets.
Every year, Baker Creek hosts a heirloom seed expo in Ventura, CA, and the plant- freaks come out to play. It’s an opportunity to see all of their varieties in real life - they bring in piles of examples of each melon, squash and pepper and put them on an impressive display.
This year, it was a playground of compost enthusiasts, rare fruit growers, and snake doctors selling soil amendments, and even the odd man out, selling hats made from dried cucumber. There were decorative watermelon carvers and a stand that sold only edible rose hips. I went home with two new varieties of papaya trees, some kind of exotic, frost-hardy pineapple, and a $45 jar of ghee made from raw, cultured butter. It was my kind of scene.
For those of you who are local, at the end of today they are selling all of this incredibly rare produce. Get to it!
Now! What to consume this week, with a star recipe for the end of summer tomatoes drizzled in a crunchy, spiced up oil, so flavorful you will want to eat it plain.
LISTEN
Laurie Anderson is my idol. I had the immense pleasure of spending time with Laurie when she contributed to my first book, Salad for President: A Cookbook Inspired by Artists. We spent the day in the Tribeca loft, the one she shared with Lou Reed, and where she lives and works to this day. She made an eggplant salad and we served lunch to her team of audio and video engineers. We took selfies together, and made a special bone marrow dish for her dog. She’s as lovely as she seems.
Anderson has a new album, and it tells the tale of Amelia Earhart’s fatal flight. The album showcases Anderson’s signature combination of spoken word, orchestral music, and reverb effects. I could listen to her voice forever, especially as she delivers Earhart’s journal entries in 22 tracks.
VIEW
If you’re in NYC, Dike Blair, painter and proud to say, my mentor, just put up a show at Karma Gallery of his most recent gouache paintings. I always say his work makes me want to, “laugh, cry, throw up, and then die,” as he seems to have the uncanny ability to commit the experience of sentience itself to paper. Go check these out in person.
WEAR
Tia Cibani’s take on children’s’ clothing is one of sophisticated whimsy — there are no cheap-shot cartoon characters, sequins, or rainbows. Her clothes manages to be smart and playful at the same time, with asymmetrical silhouettes, dramatic draping, bold pattern, and incredible detail through trim.
Tia is my source for special occasion outfits, but also for staples like ribbed knits, knee socks, and fabulous accessories that hit the “dress-up” note for my kids, while avoiding nasty fabrics and cheap materials for me. (I buy the hair accessories in bulk and store them for future birthday presents).
Tia’s Fall line is truly a masterpiece. For 15% at Tia Cibani, use the code TIASALAD at checkout.
COOK
I have been metering out this wild rose vinegar from Noma Projects since it first arrived over a year ago. It’s so well-rounded and complex, I am never sure if I want to put it on tomatoes, drink it straight, or just huff it. It’s a beautiful expression of the flower, and makes for a really special gift for the advanced chef, and the lazy one too.
Cherry Tomatoes with Crunchy, Spiced Up Olive Oil
What makes this oily, crunchy seed and spice blend so great is that you can double it and save it for later (similar to a chili crisp but not as hot). There’s no need to refrigerate, just keep it standing by to finish broccoli, spice up salmon, flatbread, add intrigue to rice, or in this case, dress up the last of the summer tomatoes. (Impulsively, I added a couple of charred Jimmy Nardello peppers to the salad. It worked).
The star players in the mix are dried Persian lime and nigella seed. The dry lime adds a floral funk, and the nigella gives both a toasty, oniony flavor, and a dimensional crunch along with sesame seeds and coriander. Both of these are great spices to get to know and keep around. Persian lime adds a nice, mellow acidity to soups and stews, and nigella is a delight on a fried egg or as a sprinkle on any salad.
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